There’s times when mainstream surf media really annoys me. Now is one of them.
In a recent issue of a magazine that shall remain nameless, a good deal of editorial content focused on the idea of localism and the effects thereof. Threats are made, property damaged, and stories of both are recounted from both sides. Sometimes, […]
That time of year is upon us. A time I crave and despise at the same time.
The days are longer, the skies sunnier, the air and water warmer. Spring leading to summer, the memories of 6/5/4 neoprene with gloves, hood, and booties distant. Remember that day in December, when the freezing rain pelted us […]
Recently I’ve noticed that we surfers spend a lot of time in the past. Our culture seems defined by it, even by a sense of loss. A constant theme: “You shoulda been here yesterday.” Implication: you missed out on something. The waves you didn’t ride yesterday are gone forever, a chapter you skipped hoping it […]
I hate the cold.
When late Fall arrives, setting stage for Winter, my thoughts turn to warmth. That may entail soup, or electric socks, or dreaming of a trip to some equatorial paradise. Since ocean temperatures drop to would-be-freezing-if-it-wasn’t-for-salt-content temperatures, surfing is right out of the question.
Yes, I’m well aware of the space age wetsuit technology […]