A funny thing happened recently in the mountains of Utah. A place known for its skiing and odd marital practices became notable for its surfing. If you haven’t been paying attention, Stacy Peralta (surfer, skate maven, auteur) has put together a film about the adventuresome enterprise of big wave surfing.
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Called Riding Giants, […]
Recently I’ve noticed that we surfers spend a lot of time in the past. Our culture seems defined by it, even by a sense of loss. A constant theme: “You shoulda been here yesterday.” Implication: you missed out on something. The waves you didn’t ride yesterday are gone forever, a chapter you skipped hoping it […]
One of the perks of telecommuting — in addition to the ability to work in pajamas — comes from lunchtime television entertainment. During a recent bout of midday channel flipping, I stopped on a certain channel of music television that, ironically, screens little in the way of music-related content.
The channel does broadcast a fair share […]
Reality is not pretty, but reality shows are pretty ugly.
If you want to know the fate of a bachelorette, or a millionaire named Joe, or what my parents think about you surviving the outback, have at it. Personally, the whole genre tired out for me several years ago after realizing I didn’t care about the […]
I hate the cold.
When late Fall arrives, setting stage for Winter, my thoughts turn to warmth. That may entail soup, or electric socks, or dreaming of a trip to some equatorial paradise. Since ocean temperatures drop to would-be-freezing-if-it-wasn’t-for-salt-content temperatures, surfing is right out of the question.
Yes, I’m well aware of the space age wetsuit technology […]
Maybe this surfing thing will catch on after all.
I came to this realization reading the latest magazine story about some surfer types. You know, the ones with the crazy nicknames like “Flea”, “Snips”, and “Skindog”. These guys surf big waves just for the sake of doing it. In addition to chasing bigger-than-the-biggest-thing-ever-and-then-some waves, they’re […]
The headline, in its brevity, made me buy the magazine. "The Legendary Da Cat, One of the Most Charismatic Surfers in the World, Died January 3. He was 67 Years Old." At least that’s what I think it says. I can’t speak or read French, and the magazines in English sold at the airport didn’t […]
Somewhere off the coast of Newfoundland, my flight only a few hours old, I watched people surfing. Never mind that these people were from El Salvador and on videotape courtesy of the entertainment division of Lufthansa, they surfed nonetheless.
As entertainment, the fifteen-minute segment made better diversion than the chosen two-hour film for the trip to […]
Not too long ago, I fell into a conversation about P.A.S.A. Introduced as “the guy with the Philadelphia surfing Web site,” the conversation veered in the way it often does, especially in the era of failing dot-coms.
“So,” he said, “does it have all those flashy things the other big sites do?”
“Well, it’s not a big […]
On my recent trip to the Outer Banks, I found out some important facts:
The high school on Hatteras Island has a football team, and they travel at least an hour to their games. Their record so far has more wins than losses.
The part of Highway 12 that washed away last year has been replaced with […]