I recently had the pleasure of witnessing a friend’s son stand up on his first wave. It happened right as I approached the beach. I didn’t expect to see my friend, much less his son riding what would hopefully be the first of many waves. The level of stoke on the beach raised visibly, enveloping […]
The situation I least expected: sitting in a bar in New York City’s East Village, discussing the topic of beach breaks versus reef breaks with a freelance lighting technician. Being on the guest list of a private party is one thing, but this was quite another.
Since the party was for the photo editors of a […]
We surfers are an odd bunch of characters. One of my co-workers returned from her two-week honeymoon in Tahiti. My first question was not “How was it?” but “How were the waves?” I can’t think of another sport that is so obsessed with the playing field. It’s not like golfers ask “Did you see any […]
There is a German word — schadenfreude — which, loosely translated, means “taking delight in the misery of others”. I wonder if the word has an antonym, for taking delight in the delight of others.
Case in point: heading to work, I spot a car with three surfboards loaded up, a wagging-tail dog in the back […]
I had the chance a few days ago to visit my “local” break. Never mind that it took over an hour to get there, never mind that Mr. Hypothermia paid a visit, never mind that Winter storms have taken a toll on the beaches and sandbars. Fact is, I chose to go surfing for a […]